This is a guide for the 2021 Pure Soy Candle-Making Kit, the most requested kit, with either Sandalwood & Vanilla or Caramel Macchiato phthalate-free fragrance oils.
MATERIALS:
2 x Glue dots
2 x Candle wick centering tool (Custom-made)
2 x Soy Candle wicks (Thick)
2 x 250ml Amber glass jars
1 x 1.2L Melting pot
1 x Stirring utensil
1 x Thermometer (infrared or candy thermometer)
1 x 400g Soy wax - use all at once
24g Fragrance oil (Sandalwood & Vanilla or Caramel Macchiato)
1 x Mini electric stove/burner
*We've included a custom-made wick centering tool designed for our 250ml glass jars!
FORMULA:
100% Pure Soy Wax
6% (of soy wax) Fragrance Oil (Sandalwood & Vanilla or Caramel Macchiato)
1% Candle Dye (Optional)
PREPARATION:
Be sure to cover your work area with newspaper or a silicone mat for easy clean up!
Wipe your jars using tissue with alcohol.
With this kit we will be making two 250ml candles using a glass jar and the thick soy wick.
PROCEDURE:
Step 1: Place your wax in your melting pot. You use a double boiler (you place the pot in boiling water to control the temperature better) or you can directly place it on the burner.
IMPORTANT: Do not heat wax over 93°C (200°F). This will result in a bad smelling wax and discoloration.
Step 2: Secure the wick at the center of the container using a glue dot and wick holder.
IMPORTANT: Be sure to place the wick in the center, as this can effect how your candle burns later. Secure the wick with a wick holder. Make sure the wick is as straight as possible.
Step 3: SKIP THIS STEP if you're not using dyes. Once the waxes have fully melted, add your colorant and mix well to incorporate. You can mix your dye in at approximately 82°C (180°F) or higher (temperature may vary depending on the dye you are using).
Step 4: Mix in fragrance oil at the standard temperature of 185°F.
IMPORTANT: Stir gently but thoroughly to ensure that the oil binds with the wax. If it's not blended thoroughly, the wax and oil might separate. Stirring too quickly might introduce bubbles into your melted wax.
Step 5: While waiting for your wax to cool down, heat your container using a heat gun (recommended), place it in a warm water bath (be sure water doesn't splash inside your jars) or pre-heat in an oven (based on other candle-makers' experience - we haven't tried this yet). This will ensure that the wax won't cool rapidly. If it cools down too quickly, the wax might pull away from the glass container.
Step 6: At 135°F (or 100°F for smoother surface) pour your melted wax into your container. It's best not to move the container once you've finished pouring to ensure a smooth and even surface. Secure the wick with a wick holder.
It's best to cool the candle down in a warm area - allowing it to solidify slowly.
Step 7: When it has fully solidified, trim the wick. Leave at least 1cm on the surface.
TIP: If your candles don't have a smooth surface, you can use a heat gun to melt the surface.
IMPORTANT: It is best to wait at least three days or up to two weeks before lighting your candle for better hot throw (stronger scent when lit).
A FEW NOTES BASED ON OUR EXPERIENCE:
Here is the result after our second burn. Please note that uneven surface after every burn is completely normal for pure soy candles.
Be sure to trim the wick before lighting the candle to ensure the flame isn't too big.
Pour the wax at the lowest temperature possible (at around 100°F) to achieve a smoother top and avoid sink holes.
COMMON PROBLEMS:
Uneven Surface: You can smooth it out using a heat gun. An uneven surface after burning is normal for pure soy wax candles.
Wet spots: Be sure to clean your vessel, and cool the candle down on a wire rack to ensure that it cools down evenly. Sudden changes in temperature may also cause wet spots. The good news is, wet spots don't affect your candle's quality.